Walk 3: Bassett's Cove to Hayle (10 mile)
From rain to sun...
Check out Sarah's video of this walk: Walk 3
“Do you think we should go?” This is the question that Sarah and I are asking ourselves way more than I ever thought possible…
We woke up early on Sunday to MORE rain and fog. Plus, earlier in the week sinkholes had opened up on Perranporth dunes – a worrying sign of how the relentless rain is impacting the ground we walk on.
“I think we should try Bassett’s Cove to Hayle,” I finally decided. Portreath to Hayle was the actual plan but I knew that Portreath to Bassett’s Cove is a tricky up and down path, which completely flattens out from Bassett’s Cove to Hayle. “Plus, the tide times should allow us to get right across Gwithian beach.”
We set off. To say it was miserable would be doing Cornwall a disservice. The views are never miserable whatever the weather and they never get boring. But it was cold, wet and our feet were soaked through and muddy within the first ten minutes. So much for hiking boots being waterproof! Still, I wasn’t really fussed about that. So much of the path was impassable with mud and puddles that we just had to go through them, slip round them (Sarah landed with a thud) or jump. However, unlike last week, the actual path felt secure, we weren’t so close to the edge and I only had one dog, not two with me as Cocoa would have been swimming.
It could! I wouldn’t say it was exactly warm at any point and we had to detour around a very swollen river as we made our way onto the beach, but it was definitely turning into a gorgeous sunny day, as actually forecast. The three miles of Gwithian beach laid out in front of us looked golden and we stomped across it, with Romeo chasing leaves because I had forgotten his ball. Leaves? On a beach? Weirdly, there were lots!
We made our way up onto the cliffside near my old pub haunt, The Bluff. I’m not even sure if it is The Bluff now but it still boasts one of my favourite views in Cornwall, the Hayle estuary which had a fishing boat sailing up it.
We woke up early on Sunday to MORE rain and fog. Plus, earlier in the week sinkholes had opened up on Perranporth dunes – a worrying sign of how the relentless rain is impacting the ground we walk on.
“I think we should try Bassett’s Cove to Hayle,” I finally decided. Portreath to Hayle was the actual plan but I knew that Portreath to Bassett’s Cove is a tricky up and down path, which completely flattens out from Bassett’s Cove to Hayle. “Plus, the tide times should allow us to get right across Gwithian beach.”
We set off. To say it was miserable would be doing Cornwall a disservice. The views are never miserable whatever the weather and they never get boring. But it was cold, wet and our feet were soaked through and muddy within the first ten minutes. So much for hiking boots being waterproof! Still, I wasn’t really fussed about that. So much of the path was impassable with mud and puddles that we just had to go through them, slip round them (Sarah landed with a thud) or jump. However, unlike last week, the actual path felt secure, we weren’t so close to the edge and I only had one dog, not two with me as Cocoa would have been swimming.
One of the better paths!
We set a good pace and by the time we got to Hell’s Mouth and popped into the café, the rain had stopped. Views around Godrevy lighthouse were stunning as always and the seals were out basking in huge numbers. There was even a slight bit of sun by this time. Surely, the rain couldn’t be letting up could it?
It could! I wouldn’t say it was exactly warm at any point and we had to detour around a very swollen river as we made our way onto the beach, but it was definitely turning into a gorgeous sunny day, as actually forecast. The three miles of Gwithian beach laid out in front of us looked golden and we stomped across it, with Romeo chasing leaves because I had forgotten his ball. Leaves? On a beach? Weirdly, there were lots!
We made our way up onto the cliffside near my old pub haunt, The Bluff. I’m not even sure if it is The Bluff now but it still boasts one of my favourite views in Cornwall, the Hayle estuary which had a fishing boat sailing up it.
We headed into Hayle, spotting two cosy little cafes I didn’t know existed, and finished at Philps pasty shop. I was energised by the combination of the sun and the easy path and could have gone further. But we only had an hour more light, and our other halves were holding the fort at home so we called it a day. With only 21 miles covered instead of my target of 36 (12 miles per walk), I’m going to have to put in some much longer days when we have the better light and weather. Still, this walk felt like a win and had brought back the same positive vibes we usually have when we head out together.
Godrevy Lighthouse
Hayle Estuary


